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Practical articles for drivers

Advice about fuel consumption, car costs, daily routes, car maintenance and useful tools for drivers in Latvia.

Latest article Clicking or Cracking When Turning the Steering Wheel: 9 Causes and How to Tell Whether the CV Joint or Driveshaft Is at Fault
You slowly pull out of a parking space with the steering wheel almost fully turned and hear a rhythmic “click-click-click” from one front wheel. The noise disappears as soon as the wheels straighten, so the first suspect is usually the CV joint. Often that is a good starting point, but not every click while turning comes from the driveshaft. We explain 9 possible causes, how to distinguish an outer CV joint clicking in a turn from an inner CV joint causing vibration under acceleration, how wheel-bearing hum differs from ball-joint and tie-rod clunks, why a strut-top bearing can crack even while the car is stationary, what a torn CV boot means, when replacing only the boot may still save the joint and how risky it is to keep driving once the joint is already clicking loudly.
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EV Charging Slowly at a 250 or 350 kW Station: 9 Reasons You May See Only 50–100 kW
You plug your electric car into a 250 or 350 kW fast charger, yet the screen shows only 55, 78 or 102 kW. Is the charger faulty, is the battery already degraded, or did the manufacturer exaggerate the car's charging capability? We explain 9 common reasons why DC fast charging can be slower than expected: high battery SOC, a battery that is too cold or too hot, battery preconditioning that was not activated, the vehicle's own DC charging limit, the charging curve, differences between 400 and 800 V architectures, power sharing at the station, cable and charger limitations, and protective restrictions imposed by the BMS. We also explain why a 350 kW label on the charger does not mean 350 kW will reach your battery, how to distinguish a normal charging curve from a genuine problem and how to perform a simple test before blaming the battery or booking a workshop visit.
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Should You Use Air Conditioning in Winter? Why A/C Is Useful Even When It Is Cold Outside
Many drivers do not touch the A/C button for months during winter because the logic seems obvious: if it is already cold outside, why switch on a system designed to cool the cabin? But a car's air-conditioning system does much more than provide cool air in summer. We explain how A/C helps remove moisture and clear fogged windows, whether it can be used together with heating, why the compressor may not actually run in very cold weather and whether using A/C in winter noticeably increases fuel consumption.
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Oil Pressure Warning Light Came On: When Must You Switch Off the Engine Immediately and How Can You Tell Apart Low Oil, a Sensor, Pump or Engine Wear?
A red oil-can warning light may indicate more than a low oil level. It can also mean critically low pressure, a failed pump, blocked pickup, incorrect filter, fuel-diluted oil or worn engine bearings. This comprehensive guide explains when the engine must be switched off immediately, how to check the oil level and visible leaks safely, why you must not continue driving even when the oil level is normal and what a workshop checks before expensive engine damage occurs.
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Car Windows Fog Up or Freeze on the Inside: How to Restore Visibility Quickly and Find the Source of Moisture
Why does the windscreen fog up only minutes after a journey begins, why can it freeze on the inside during winter and how should the heater, air conditioning and recirculation mode be used correctly? This comprehensive guide explains how to restore visibility quickly, distinguish wet carpets and a blocked cabin filter from leaking doors, sunroof drains or a heater matrix, and understand when the vehicle should be inspected by a workshop.
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How to Drive a Hybrid Economically: Mistakes That Increase Fuel Consumption Even in a “Fuel-Efficient” Car
A hybrid can be a very fuel-efficient car, but only if you drive it in the way this technology works best. In this article, we explain why a hybrid can use very little fuel in the city but may not always impress on the highway, how to use regenerative braking properly, when not to overuse EV mode and which mistakes make even an economical hybrid consume more fuel. Practical tips, tables, a mini test and a 7-day experiment will help you understand whether you are using your hybrid’s full potential.
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How Old Can Tyres Be and Still Be Safe If the Tread Looks Good?
A tyre still has 6 mm of tread, shows no obvious damage and looks almost new — but the DOT date code reveals that it was manufactured seven or eight years ago. Is it still safe to drive on? We explain how tyre rubber ages, how to read the DOT date code, why tread depth is not the only safety factor and which warning signs suggest that it is time to replace the tyres.
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Brakes Squeaking, Vibrating or the Pedal Feels Soft: When Can You Drive and When Must You Stop Immediately?
What do squeaking brakes, metallic grinding, steering-wheel vibration, a soft pedal or the car pulling to one side mean? This comprehensive guide explains how brake pads, discs, callipers, brake fluid, ABS and the parking brake work, the most dangerous warning signs, checks to perform before driving, common maintenance mistakes and the situations in which the vehicle should no longer be driven to a workshop under its own power.
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Diesel in the City: How Short Trips Affect the DPF, Fuel Consumption and Repair Costs
A diesel car can be very economical on longer journeys, but in the city and on short trips it often starts living in a completely different operating mode. A cold engine, frequent stopping, unfinished DPF regeneration, higher fuel consumption and expensive repairs can turn a “fuel-saving diesel” into an unexpectedly costly everyday car. In this detailed and practical guide, we explain what happens to a diesel in city driving, why the particulate filter becomes clogged, how to recognise warning signs, what to do when the DPF light appears and how to understand whether your driving profile is actually suitable for a diesel car.
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